Vegetarian Delights: A Confessions of a Foodie Offspring

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Wednesday, June 1, 2022

Rhubarb Desserts

If you're like me, you love dessert. For me, rhubarb desserts bring up many memories.

One year, my folks had a house in Connecticut that had a good-sized garden. One of the things the previous owners had planted was rhubarb, which threatened to take over the whole garden. So, of course, we had to figure out stuff to use it in.

To that end, here are six rhubarb dessert recipes, including Rhubarb Ice Cream with a Caramel Swirl and Straight-Up Rhubarbe Pie. Enjoy!

RHUBARB MACAROON TART

This comes from Samantha Seneviratne in The New York Times cooking e-newsletter. Samantha wrote, "Rhubarb makes any dessert a showstopper, but this tart has more than meets the eye. Under the fruit is a luscious vanilla custard nestled in a chewy macaroon shell. When shopping, look for rhubarb that is about 1/2- to 3/4-inch wide; any bigger and the stalks might start to fall apart in the poaching liquid before the center becomes tender, and any smaller and you’ll need to keep a close eye, since they’ll cook quickly. While the rhubarb topping is a show-stopper, freshly sliced fruit makes a great understudy if you can’t find robust pink stalks."

Yield: 8 to 10 servings; Time: 1-1/4 hours, plus cooling.

You can view this online at https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020982-rhubarb-macaroon-tart.

Ingredients

For the Crust:

1 (14-ounce) bag sweetened, shredded coconut (about 5 cups)

Butter, for greasing

4 large egg whites

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For the Custard:

1 3/4 cups whole milk

1/4 cup heavy cream

4 large egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped (or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract)

1/2 teaspoon rose water (optional)

For the Rhubarb:

2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped (or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract)

1 3/4 pounds medium rhubarb stalks, cut into 4-inch batons

Preparation

Prepare the crust: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the coconut in an even layer on a large rimmed baking sheet and toast until deep golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes, tossing occasionally and keeping a close eye in the last 5 minutes to avoid burning. Let cool completely. Using butter, grease an 8-1/2-by-12-inch fluted rectangle or a 10-inch fluted round pan with a removable bottom. Line the bottom with parchment and grease the parchment with butter.

In a large bowl, combine the coconut, egg whites, sugar and salt; press into the prepared tart pan. Bake on a rimmed baking sheet until set, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack to cool completely.

Prepare the custard: Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl. In a separate medium bowl or a large glass measuring cup, whisk together milk, cream and egg yolks. Add sugar and cornstarch to a medium saucepan; gradually whisk in milk mixture until smooth. Add the 2 tablespoons butter and vanilla bean and seeds and cook mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly, until it has thickened and just come up to a low boil, 6 to 7 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, for another minute. Pour custard through sieve, using a spatula to scrape it through and discarding any solids. Stir rose water into custard, if using, then pour mixture into prepared crust. Let cool slightly, then cover with plastic wrap pressed against the surface of the custard and chill until firm, at least 4 hours.

Prepare the rhubarb: In a medium pot, combine sugar, 2 cups water and the vanilla bean and seeds, and bring to a boil. Simmer until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Stir in rhubarb, simmer for 1 minute, and remove from heat. Let cool completely.

Gently remove the rhubarb from the cooled pot, letting the syrup drip back into the pot. Top the chilled tart with the rhubarb in a decorative pattern. Lift the tart out of the rim to serve.

RHUBARB ICE CREAM WITH A CARAMEL SWIRL

This is from Melissa Clark in The New York Times cooking e-newsletter. Melissa wrote, “This ice cream is chock-full of sweet bits, but with enough satiny frozen custard to savor between the chunks. To keep the rhubarb from freezing into tooth-breaking fruity ice cubes, stew it with plenty of sugar, which keeps the fruit soft. The technique works with any summer fruit, though it’s especially nice with rhubarb, or gooseberries for that matter, both of which need a lot of sugar to tame their squint-inducing acid content. But you can substitute strawberries, apricots, cherries, peaches or plums as the summer fruit season progresses, adjusting the sugar depending upon the sweetness of the fruit.”

Yield: One scant quart

This was featured in “Rhubarb, It Turns Out, Can Be a Sweetie”, and can be viewed online here.

Ingredients

1 and 1/2 cups whole milk

1 and 3/4 cup plus 6 tablespoons granulated sugar

Pinch fine sea salt

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

4 large egg yolks, lightly beaten

1 and 1/2 cups sour cream

3/4 pound rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 cup heavy cream

Preparation

In a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, whisk together the milk, 3/4 cup sugar, the salt, the vanilla bean seeds and its pod. Simmer gently until sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and steep 30 minutes. Discard the vanilla pod and return mixture to a bare simmer.

Place the yolks in a large bowl. Slowly whisk in hot milk mixture. Scrape the custard back into the pot and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Whisk in sour cream. Chill at least 3 hours or overnight.

In a saucepan, combine the rhubarb with 1 cup sugar. Simmer until rhubarb is just tender and has begun releasing its juices, but has not started to fall apart, 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer rhubarb to a bowl. Continue to simmer the juices until syrupy, 5 to 10 minutes more. Pour the syrup over the rhubarb. Cool completely.

In a clean, dry and preferably nonstick skillet, sprinkle 2 tablespoons sugar over medium heat. When it begins to melt and lightly color, sprinkle in 2 more tablespoons and start swirling pan to help evenly distribute sugar. Add the final 2 tablespoons and cook, swirling pan until all the sugar has melted. Let cook, swirling occasionally, until the sugar syrup caramelizes and turns dark brown. Pour in the heavy cream and 2 tablespoons water (stand back; it may splatter). Simmer, stirring with a heatproof rubber spatula until smooth. Cool completely.

Pour the custard base into an ice cream machine and churn. Add rhubarb compote for the last minute of churning.

Scrape a quarter of the caramel into the bottom of a freezer-proof quart container. Top with a quarter of the ice cream. Repeat layering until all of the caramel and ice cream has been used, ending with the ice cream. Freeze until firm for at least 2 hours and up to 1 week.

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB FLUMMERY

This was in the May/June 2006 issue of Vegetarian Times (page 63), and begins, "Layers of a fast fruit compote and coconut whipped cream make this traditional Irish dessert a fantastic warm weather finale when you want something light. The longer the coconut-cashew cream is left to chill, the thicker it gets, so make it a day or two ahead, if possible."

Makes 6 servings

To view this online, go to https://www.vegetariantimes.com/recipes/strawberry-rhubarb-flummery/.

Ingredients

1 cup raw cashews

1 15-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk

1 cup cane or maple sugar

1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

3 stalks rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (3 cups)

2 tsp. lemon juice

2 pints fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered (3 cups)

1/2 cup rolled oats

Preparation

Grind cashews in food processor or blender until powdery. Add coconut milk, 1/4 cup sugar and 1/2 tsp. vanilla. Process 5 minutes, or until creamy, stopping once or twice to scrape down sides of bowl. Cover and chill overnight or up to 2 days.

Combine rhubarb, 3/4 cup sugar and lemon juice in medium saucepan. Simmer 10 minutes over medium heat, or until rhubarb begins to soften, stirring occasionally. Add strawberries and cook 3 to 4 minutes more, or until strawberries are soft, but not mushy. Remove from heat, and stir in 1 tsp. vanilla. Transfer to bowl, let cool to room temperature, then cover and chill.

Toast oats in small skillet over medium heat 3 minutes, or until light brown, stirring often. Remove from heat, and cool.

To serve: Spoon 1/4 cup compote in bottoms of 6 wine or parfait glasses. Top with 2 Tbs. coconut-cashew cream, and sprinkle with oats. Repeat layering to fill glasses. Serve immediately.

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB DUMP CAKE

This yumminess comes from Betty Crocker, and begins, "Made with only six ingredients and the help of Betty Crocker™ cake mix, this dump dessert is weeknight- and crowd-friendly!"

Prep Time: 10 minutes; Total Time: 1 hour 10 minutes; Servings: 12

To view this online, click here.

Ingredients

6 cups sliced strawberries

2 cups sliced rhubarb

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 box Betty Crocker™ Super Moist™ yellow cake mix

10 tablespoons butter, melted

Directions

Heat oven to 350°F. Spray 13x9-inch (3-quart) baking dish with cooking spray.

In large bowl, toss strawberries, rhubarb, sugar and cornstarch; spread evenly in baking dish. Top with cake mix, and pour melted butter over top, making sure to cover top with butter as much as you can.

Bake about 1 hour or until bubbly and topping is browned. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream.

Expert Tips

May use fresh or frozen fruit. If using frozen, do not thaw before using.

Make sure to spread out cake mix so there are no large mounds on top of cake.

RHUBARB CRISP

This is from Mark Bittman, also in The New York Times cooking e-newsletter. Mark wrote, "When you think of rhubarb you probably think of strawberry-rhubarb pie, a quintessential spring dessert, especially if it’s made by someone who makes good pies. I usually manage around one pie crust annually, so I need alternatives. Thus, when the spring’s first rhubarb shows up, I adjust the execution and produce a crisp. If rhubarb is young and fresh, you can trim it in seconds. If it has fibrous outer strings, peel them off as you would those of celery. Toss the rhubarb with orange or lemon juice and zest, and only a little sugar. (You can also substitute strawberries for some of the rhubarb if you want the classic combination.) Blend the ingredients for the crisp topping in a food processor, crumble the topping over the rhubarb mixture, and bake — it is nearly effortless and as good or better than a pie."

Yield: 6 to 8 servings; Time: 1 hour.

This was featured in "Rhubarb Crisp That Stands Up to Pie" and can be viewe online here.

Ingredients

6 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces, plus more for greasing pan

2 1/2 to 3 pounds rhubarb, trimmed, tough strings removed, and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces (about 5 to 6 cups)

1/4 cup white sugar

1 tablespoon orange or lemon juice

1 teaspoon orange or lemon zest

3/4 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, or to taste

Pinch salt

1/2 cup rolled oats

1/2 cup pecans

Preparation

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking or gratin dish with a little butter. Toss rhubarb with white sugar, orange or lemon juice and zest, and spread in baking dish.

Put the 6 tablespoons butter in a food processor along with brown sugar, flour, cinnamon and salt, and pulse for about 20 or 30 seconds, until it looks like small peas and just begins to clump together. Add oats and pecans and pulse just a few times to combine.

Crumble the topping over rhubarb and bake until golden and beginning to brown, 45 to 50 minutes.

STRAIGHT-UP RHUBARB PIE

This is from Amanda Hesser in The New York Times cooking e-newsletter. Amanda wrote, “This rhubarb pie contains no distractions, like strawberries. The crust is made with shortening. (Butter is fine if you want a French tart, but it's not American pie unless it's made with shortening, the author Anne Dimock said.) The top is marked with 8 razor-thin vents.”

Yield: 8 servings; Time: 1 hour 15 minutes.

This was featured in “Circular Thinking” and can be viewed online here.

Ingredients

For the Crust:

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

2/3 cup vegetable shortening, plus 2 tablespoons

6 tablespoons ice water

For the Filling:

5 cups sliced rhubarb

1 1/4 cups sugar

5 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1 1/2 tablespoons butter

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Make the crust: before measuring the flour, stir it to leaven with air and then measure out 2 cups. Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a large bowl and fluff with a fork. Cut the shortening into the flour with a fork or pastry blender. Stop as soon as the sheen of the butter disappears and the mixture is a bunch of coarse pieces. Sprinkle a tablespoon of water at a time over the dough, lifting and tossing it with the fork. When it begins to come together, gather the dough, press it into a ball and then pull it apart; if it crumbles in your hands, it needs more water. (It's better to err on the side of too wet than too dry.) Add a teaspoon or two more water, as needed.

Gather the dough into two slightly unequal balls, the larger one for the bottom crust and the smaller one for the top. Flatten the larger ball, reforming any frayed edges with the sides of your hand. Dust with flour and roll the dough, starting from the center and moving toward the edges. Take a knife or thin spatula and quickly work its edge between the crust and the counter top. Lift the dough to the side; dust the dough and counter top with flour. Roll again until the diameter is an inch or 2 larger than that of the pie pan. Lay the rolling pin a third of the way from one of the edges. Roll the crust onto the pin and then unroll the crust into a 9-inch pie pan and press it into place. Place in the freezer.

Make the filling: in a large bowl, blend the rhubarb, sugar, flour and cinnamon. Pour into the crust-lined pie pan. Dot with butter.

Roll out the top crust. Dab the rim of the bottom crust with water to create a glue. Then place the top crust over the rhubarb; trim, seal and cut several vents. Bake for 15 minutes; reduce the temperature to 350 degrees and bake 25 to 30 minutes more, or until a bit of pink juice bubbles from the vents in the crust.

Tip

Anne Dimock's secret ingredient is Extra Fancy Vietnamese Cassia Cinnamon, available from Penzeys Spices, www.penzeys.com.