Vegetarian Delights: A Confessions of a Foodie Offspring

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Monday, March 25, 2024

Easter Dinner

Since it's now less than a week until Easter, here are six recipes for your holiday dinner (no matter what holiday), including Three Sisters Casserole and Duchess Potatoes. Enjoy!

VEGETARIAN MUSHROOM WELLINGTON

This comes from Alexa Weibel at The New York Times cooking e-newsletter. Alexa wrote, “Classic beef Wellington is a technical feat in which a tenderloin is topped with foie gras or mushroom duxelles, then wrapped in puff pastry and baked. This vegetarian version is less exacting yet just as impressive. Seared portobello mushrooms are layered with apple cider-caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms, which are seasoned with soy sauce for flavor and bolstered with walnuts for texture. The rich mushroom filling is vegan, and the entire dish can easily be made vegan, too. Swap in vegan puff pastry, a butter substitute in the port reduction and caramelized onions, and an egg substitute for brushing the puff pastry. If you want to prepare ahead, sauté the mushrooms and onions in advance and refrigerate them, then assemble the dish the day you plan to bake and serve it. Prepare the port reduction as the Wellington bakes, or skip it entirely and serve with cranberry sauce for a touch of tangy sweetness.”

Time: 3 hours; Yield: 8 servings

To view this online, go to https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020596-vegetarian-mushroom-wellington.

Ingredients

For the Mushroom Filling:

4 large portobello mushrooms, each about 3 inches wide (8 to 10 ounces total)

1/2 cup plus 5 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 pounds mixed mushrooms, such as shiitake, oyster and cremini

4 shallots, finely chopped (about 1 packed cup)

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

1/3 cup port, or 1 to 2 tablespoons good-quality aged balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 cup finely chopped toasted walnuts (about 4 ounces)

Ice, for cooling

For the Onions:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 medium yellow onions (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch rounds

3/4 teaspoon light or dark brown sugar

1-1/4 teaspoons kosher salt

3/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup apple cider or apple juice

1 tablespoon good-quality aged balsamic vinegar (optional)

For Assembling:

All-purpose flour, for dusting

1 (14-ounce) package puff pastry

1 large egg, beaten

For the Port Reductions (Optional):

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large shallot, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

1-1/2 cups good-quality port

1-1/2 cups vegetable stock

3 fresh thyme sprigs

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Kosher salt and black pepper

Preparation

Wipe the portobello mushrooms clean using barely moistened paper towels. Remove the stems, then slice off the excess mushroom rim that curls over the gills. (You are making sure the stem side has a flat surface so it will sear properly.) Reserve the stems and scraps for use in Step 2. Brush the portobello mushroom caps on both sides with 3 tablespoons olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high and cook the mushrooms, gill-side down, until caramelized, 4 to 5 minutes, then flip and cook until softened, about 4 more minutes. Transfer to a wire rack, gill-side down, to cool.

Prepare the mushroom filling: Separate and reserve any mushroom stems. Roughly chop about two-thirds of the mixed mushrooms, then working in batches, transfer the roughly chopped mushrooms to a food processor and pulse until chopped into small pieces. (They should range from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch in size.) Transfer the chopped mushrooms to a large bowl. By hand, finely chop the remaining mixed mushrooms and stems and the reserved portobello mushroom stems and trimmings into 1/4-inch pieces; add them to the large bowl. (Chopping most of the mixed mushrooms in the food processor will save you some time, but you’ll want to chop some by hand for texture.)

Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. (You’ll use this to quickly cool the cooked mushrooms in Step 4. If preparing in advance, you can simply let the mixture cool to room temperature, then refrigerate.) Wipe out the skillet. Working in two batches, warm 1/4 cup olive oil over medium-high heat. Add about half the mushrooms, shallots, garlic and rosemary, and season lightly with salt and generously with pepper. (You’ll add soy sauce later, so avoid overseasoning at this stage.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until caramelized and tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and repeat with the remaining 1/4 cup oil and the remaining mushrooms, shallots, garlic and rosemary.

Once the second batch of chopped mushrooms is cooked and caramelized, return the first batch to the skillet. Add the port, soy sauce and thyme leaves and cook over medium-high, stirring occasionally, until the liquid evaporates, 3 to 5 minutes. (If using balsamic vinegar instead of port, reduce the cook time to 1 to 2 minutes.) Transfer the mushroom mixture back to the medium bowl and stir in the walnuts. Set the bowl over the prepared ice bath to cool, stirring occasionally, at least 20 minutes.

Prepare the cider-caramelized onions: Wipe out the skillet, then melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions, sprinkle with the sugar, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the cider and cook, stirring every few minutes, until the liquid evaporates and the onions are caramelized, about 15 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, if using, then transfer to a bowl to cool.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a large piece of parchment paper on your work surface and lightly dust it with flour. Unfold your thawed puff pastry and set it on the parchment. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the pastry out into a 13-by-16-inch rectangle. Transfer the parchment paper and puff pastry to a large sheet pan. Rotate the sheet pan, if needed, so that one of the 16-inch sides is closest to you. Arrange half the cooked mushroom mixture in a strip in the center of the puff pastry (it should be about 4-by-10 inches), leaving a 1 1/2-inch border at the ends. Arrange the caramelized onions in a single, 3-inch-wide strip on top of the mushroom mixture, leaving about 1/2 inch of the mushrooms exposed on both sides. Lay the portobello mushrooms on top of the onions in a single line, stem-side down. (If the portobellos are too large to all fit in a row, square off edges so the cut sides lay snugly without overlapping.) Spoon the remaining mushroom mixture on top of the filling, covering the portobello mushrooms, then gently pack the mushroom mixture to form an even layer on top. (You can shape this the same way you might shape a freeform meatloaf.)

To assemble, lift one side of the puff pastry over the mushroom filling to almost completely cover it. Brush the surface of the puff pastry covering the mushrooms with the beaten egg. Lift the remaining puff pastry flap over the egg-washed puff pastry, gently stretching it if need be to create a second layer of puff pastry on top, then gently press the top layer of pastry onto the lower layer using your fingertips to seal. Brush the insides of the short ends of the puff pastry and press to seal. Trim any parchment paper that extends beyond the sheet pan.

Brush the exposed puff pastry on top with the remaining beaten egg. Decorate the top of the puff pastry as you like: Create a cross-hatch pattern by gently slicing through only the top layer of puff pastry in parallel lines, then cutting parallel lines in another direction. (Apply very little pressure, as you only want to cut through the top layer of puff pastry, not the second layer.) You can also slice small decorative vents in the puff pastry (be sure to slice all the way through both layers of puff pastry), or top with additional strips or shapes made from egg-washed puff pastry.

Transfer to the middle rack in the oven and bake until puff pastry is deep golden and flaky, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool slightly on the baking sheet, about 10 minutes.

While the Wellington bakes, prepare the optional port reduction: In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium. Add the shallot, garlic and peppercorns, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the port, stock and thyme, and cook over medium-high until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 25 to 30 minutes. Strain the sauce, discarding the solids. (You should have about 1/2 cup sauce.) Cover and set aside until ready to serve. When ready to serve, warm the sauce over medium. Once warmed, whisk in the butter, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

To serve the mushroom Wellington, cut it crosswise into 8 even slabs. (Each slab will include a pretty cross-section showcasing the halved portobello mushroom in the center; this is considered the presentation side.) Serve each piece presentation-side up. Pass with port reduction for drizzling on top.

OMBRE GRATIN

This yumminess is from Alexa Weibel in The New York Times cooking enewsletter. For this recipe, Alexa wrote, "This stunning vegetarian Thanksgiving main dish belongs at the center of any table. Beneath a crispy, wispy golden crust of store-bought phyllo lies a gratin with layers of creamy autumnal vegetables in a colorful ombré pattern. Slice the vegetables very thinly using a mandoline for safety and ease (see Tip), and they’ll bake up tender and creamy. Because each vegetable has varying densities and sugar levels, they benefit from individual attention: Salt each layer zealously, as the vegetables need a significant amount to offset their natural sweetness, and they really soak up the sauce. The sweet potatoes and squash may be sliced before you start cooking, but the potatoes should be done later, to prevent them from oxidizing, and the beets, to prevent them from falling apart. This creamy root vegetable gratin is exacting, and requires some effort, but its wow factor justifies the labor."

Time: 3 hours; Yield: 12 servings

This was featured in "The Best Vegetarian Thanksgiving Looks as Good as It Tastes", and can be viewed online at https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1023633-ombre-gratin.

Ingredients

For the Cream

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the dish

1-1/2 cups finely chopped shallots (from 4 large shallots)

8 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns

4 cups half-and-half

8 fresh or dried bay leaves

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

3/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

3 large egg yolks

For the Vegetables

2-1/2 pounds red potatoes (about 6 medium red potatoes), scrubbed

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper

2 large beets (about 6 ounces each)

10 ounces Gruyère, grated (about 4 cups)

2 large sweet potatoes (about 10 ounces each), peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced into 1/8-inch-thick slices (see Tip)

2 pounds butternut squash (the neck of 1 squash), peeled, quartered lengthwise and sliced into 1/8-inch-thick slices (see Tip)

For the Phyllo Top

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons/5 ounces unsalted butter

16 phyllo pastry sheets, thawed

Preparation

Set a rack in the middle of the oven and another right below it. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with butter; set aside.

Prepare the cream: In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low. Add the shallots, garlic and black peppercorns and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the half-and-half, bay leaves, thyme, nutmeg and 1-1/2 teaspoons salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.

Strain the seasoned cream through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. (You should have about 3 cups.) Return the cream to the saucepan off the heat. In the same bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then whisk in a few tablespoons of the warm cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, to temper the yolks. (Tempering prevents the cold yolks from scrambling when combined with the warm cream. The yolks will help your filling hold together.) Whisk the egg yolk mixture into the cream. Reserve and refrigerate 1 cup cream for serving. Rinse and dry the bowl.

Using a mandoline (or very sharp knife; see Tip), slice the unpeeled red potatoes crosswise 1/8-inch thick. In the bowl, toss the potatoes with 1-1/2 teaspoons salt and 3/4 teaspoon pepper until evenly seasoned, then stir the potatoes into the cream in the saucepan. (The warmth of the cream will help the potatoes start to cook.) Set aside.

Peel, trim and halve the beets, then slice them 1/8-inch thick using a mandoline (or very sharp knife; see Tip). Add the beets to the bowl and toss with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Shingle the sliced beets in the baking dish, overlapping slightly, in two even layers, then sprinkle them evenly with 1-1/3 cups grated Gruyère. Wipe out the bowl to remove any beet juices.

In the bowl, season the sliced sweet potatoes with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; toss to coat. Shingle them on top of the cheese-topped beets in 2 to 3 even layers, then press them gently to compress the vegetables evenly, eliminating any air pockets. Sprinkle the sweet potatoes with 1-1/3 cups grated Gruyère.

In the bowl, season the squash with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; toss to coat. Shingle the squash over the cheese-topped sweet potatoes in 2 even layers, press to compress the mixture, then sprinkle the squash with the remaining 1-1/3 cups grated Gruyère.

Shingle the potatoes on top in 2 to 3 even layers, then slowly pour the remaining cream mixture evenly over the sliced vegetables. Set on the middle rack of the oven and place a large sheet pan directly underneath on the rack below to catch any drips. Bake until the vegetables start to soften, about 1 hour.

After the vegetables have baked for about 40 minutes, prepare the phyllo: In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Working on a large, clean surface, set 1 sheet of phyllo down. Brush lightly with melted butter then set a second sheet of phyllo on top. Take your hands and scrunch the phyllo into a 5-1/2-inch rosette with lots of folds. Push aside, then repeat with remaining 14 sheets of phyllo, creating 8 rosettes total.

After the sliced vegetables have cooked for 1 hour, remove from the oven. Increase heat to 400 degrees. Using a paper towel, gently pat the surface to remove any liquid that may have risen to the surface, then cover the top with the 8 phyllo rosettes, scrunching them as needed to fit. Brush the phyllo generously with melted butter.

Bake until the phyllo is crisp and golden and the vegetables are tender and a paring knife slides easily through the center, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 20 to 30 minutes before slicing. (Patience is crucial; if you slice this before the liquids are reabsorbed, the gratin won’t form slices without slipping apart.)

While the gratin firms up, reheat the reserved cream over medium until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Season the warm sauce with salt and pepper.

To serve, cut the gratin in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise to form 12 even slices. Pass the sauce at the table, to spoon on the side.

Tip

In order for the vegetables to be tender by the time the phyllo is crispy and golden, they must be sliced 1/8-inch thick. A mandoline makes fast work of vegetable slicing and creates uniformly thin pieces, though you could use a very sharp knife (and an abundance of caution) when slicing the dense vegetables. Japanese Benriner slicers are restaurant staples, and are affordable tools for home cooks, too.

THREE SISTERS CASSEROLE

This was in the November/December 2006 issue of Vegetarian Times, page 61. It begins, "A Native American expression, “three sisters” refers to the practice of growing beans, corn, and squash together. This filling casserole can be frozen for an upcoming party or made fresh for dinner. Serve with Pumpkin Seed Pesto."

Serves 6.

To view this online, go to https://www.vegetariantimes.com/recipes/three-sisters-casserole/.

Ingredients

Polenta topping

1 1/2 cups yellow cornmeal

1 Tbs. chili powder

3/4 tsp. salt

Filling

3 Tbs. olive oil, divided

1 small onion, chopped (1 cup)

1 large red or yellow bell pepper, cut into 1-inch dice (1 cup)

1 lb. kabocha squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes (2 cups)

1 15-oz. can diced tomatoes with chiles

2 cloves garlic, minced (2 tsp.)

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. ground cumin

1/2 tsp. salt

1 15-oz. can pinto beans, drained and rinsed

1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed

Preparation

To make Polenta Topping: Whisk together cornmeal, chili powder, salt, and 4½ cups water in double boiler, or in large metal bowl over barely simmering water. Cook 40 minutes, or until polenta is thick and stiff, stirring 3 or 4 times. Remove from heat.

To make Filling: Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat 2 Tbs. oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, and cook 7 minutes, or until softened, stirring often. Add bell pepper, and cook 5 minutes more, stirring often.

Stir in squash, tomatoes, garlic, coriander, and cumin. Cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in 1/2 cup water and salt. Bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low, and simmer, partially covered, 10 to 15 minutes, or until squash is tender. Stir in beans and corn, and cook 5 minutes, or until slightly thickened, stirring occasionally.

Coat 8- x 11-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Spread 2 cups polenta over bottom of prepared dish. Spoon squash mixture over polenta. Smooth remaining polenta (about 2 1/2 cups) over top.

Score casserole into 6 squares with knife. Brush top with remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Bake 30 minutes, or until heated through and top is lightly browned.

ROASTED CABBAGE WEDGES WITH LEMON VINAIGRETTE

This yumminess is from Alexa Weibel in The New York Times cooking enewsletter. For this recipe, Alexa wrote, "Sliced into wedges and drizzled with a tangy lemon-mustard dressing, cabbage roasts in high heat as it tenderizes and sweetens for this easy, make-ahead salad or side. Apply some heat and the cruciferous vegetable loses its crunch, turning sweet and silky like leeks vinaigrette, with unexpected nutty notes. This salad is best enjoyed chilled, but it can also be enjoyed hot or at room temperature, making it particularly party-friendly. Because sturdy cabbage holds up better than fragile salad greens, this dish can be prepared in advance and refrigerated. Drizzled with a tangy crème fraîche-and-mayonnaise sauce that is faintly reminiscent of ranch dressing, this wedge salad is fresh and cooling, its chill an unexpected delight."

Time: 45 minutes, plus overnight chilling; Yield: 8 servings

This was featured in "The Best Vegetarian Thanksgiving Looks as Good as It Tastes", and can be viewed online at https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1023637-roasted-cabbage-wedges-with-lemon-vinaigrette.

Ingredients

For the Roasted Cabbage

1 medium head green cabbage (about 2-1/2 to 2-3/4 pounds)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice

2 tablespoons coarse mustard

1 tablespoon honey

2 large garlic cloves, finely grated (2 teaspoons)

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper

For the Dressing

1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 lemon, zested plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Kosher salt and black pepper

Torn fresh dill and parsley, for garnish

Preparation

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Prepare the cabbage: Peel any wilted outer leaves, then halve the cabbage lengthwise through the core, setting both halves flat on your cutting board. Slice them through the core into 12 even wedges (each about 1-1/4 inches thick at the widest point). Gently transfer them to a large sheet pan, carefully keeping each wedge intact.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, mustard, honey, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Brush half the vinaigrette over the cabbage wedges, making sure it drips between the leaves, then carefully flip the wedges over and brush with the remaining vinaigrette.

Roast the cabbage until tender, golden at the edges and caramelized, 25 to 30 minutes.

While the cabbage roasts, prepare the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice; season to taste with salt and pepper. (If using sour cream, thin the dressing with just enough water so that it can be drizzled, about 1 tablespoon.) Refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Let the cabbage cool, then refrigerate it for up to 2 days. Arrange the cabbage wedges on a serving platter. Season to taste. Serve cold or at room temperature, drizzled with the dressing (brought to room temperature) and garnished with the dill and parsley.

MASHED POTATOES WITH GARLIC AND BASIL

This is from Pierre Franey in The New York Times cooking enewsletter. (Hint: If you haven't signed up for their enewsletter, I highly recommend it. You'll be able to access their yummy recipes, guides, and tips for cooking.)

Total Time: 30 minutes; Yield: 4 servings

This was featured in "60-Minute Gourmet," and can be found online at https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/4118-mashed-potatoes-with-garlic-and-basil.

Ingredients

6 to 8 medium Washington, Idaho or Yellow Gold potatoes

6 whole garlic cloves, peeled

Salt to taste

2 tablespoons virgin olive oil

1-1/4 cups warm milk

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil

Freshly ground white pepper

Preparation

Peel the potatoes and cut them into 3/4-inch cubes. Place the pieces in saucepan and cover with water. Add the garlic and salt.

Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Do not overcook.

Drain. Discard garlic. Put the potatoes through a food mill or ricer, or mash them well with a potato masher.

Add the olive oil, and beat to blend. Add the warm milk, basil and pepper. Blend well. Serve piping hot.

DUCHESS POTATOES

This was in the November/December 2006 issue of Vegetarian Times, page 67. It begins, "Mashed potatoes usually have to be made just before serving, but this ingenious dish lets you mash them a day ahead, then shape into swirls. If you don’t have a pastry bag, shape with an ice cream scoop."

Makes 8 servings

To view this online, go to https://www.vegetariantimes.com/recipes/duchess-potatoes/.

Ingredients

3 lb. russet potatoes (about 3 large), peeled and cubed

4 Tbs. unsalted butter

3/4 cup low-fat sour cream

2 egg yolks

1/2 cup chopped chives

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400F. Coat baking sheet with cooking spray. Bring potatoes and enough water to cover to a boil in pot. Reduce heat to medium, and cook 10 minutes, or until soft. Drain, and mash until smooth. Stir in butter and sour cream, then egg yolks and chives. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Transfer potatoes to pastry bag fitted with a star tip. Pipe 8 swirled ovals onto prepared baking sheet. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, or until edges begin to brown, or refrigerate until ready to use.

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